Tokyo Sumidagawa Sakura Pink

How to Survive Hanami Season in Japan

In Japan, JapanTravel by Jaclynn SeahLeave a Comment

Ohayo Gozaimasu! Japan has given me a helluva welcome so far with the Sakura trees blossoming right on schedule in my first week in Tokyo! I spent most of my week exploring various parks and hot spots for Hanami – it’s my first time seeing the Sakura in full bloom and I’m starting to understand what the big fuss is about. It really is quite beautiful and fleeting!

Tokyo Imperial Palace Sakura Selfie

Obligatory Sakura Selfie – because everyone was doing it

Meanwhile, here’s the first post I did up for my internship with JapanTravel. It’s mostly about my experience and observations of the Hanami tradition in Tokyo. It’s honestly a bit bewildering if you are a foreigner and don’t understand the extreme passion the locals have for Sakura blossoms. They take it super seriously in Japan, with a ton of reports, coverage and updates so you know where exactly the best spots are.

Tokyo Imperial Palace Sakura Close up


Blogging on the road is hard – I think I’m still fairly excited about being abroad as a whole, so taking the time out to actually do some writing when there is a whole city to be exploring feels tough. But I’m starting to figure out my rhythms better so hopefully you see more stories soon.

Tokyo Sumidagawa Sakura Pink

Sakura flowers come in variants of pink and white

Visiting Japan to catch the beauty of the Sakura blooms for the first time? Hanami, literally translated as the ‘flower viewing’ season, typically happens in late March to early April and is Japan at its most picturesque, with vibrant bursts of pink and white colours throughout the city parks and countryside, creating picture-perfect moments as these small flower petals dance in the breeze.

Tokyo Kaikyo Korakuen Sakura Petals

Less romantic when they are already fallen – there’s something poetic about the way they blow in the breeze

Hanami season has become an integral part of Japanese culture. Here are three essential things you need to know if it’s your first Hanami:

Plan for a longer stay, if possible

Sakura blooming is a tenuous business – it happens at different times each year depending on a multitude of factors like the weather and which part of the country you are in. If they are an essential reason you want to visit Japan in the first place, try and stay in Japan for a longer period so there is better chance of your stay overlapping with the full blossoming period. Typically once a few trees start blooming, it takes around 3-4 days for everything to be in full bloom. Always check the cherry blossom forecasts to be certain, especially with the unpredictable weather.

Tokyo Ueno Park Sakura Half

Ueno Park on my first evening 28 March – I would call this half bloom? Still a little bare but you can see the flowers already

Tokyo Ueno Park Sakura Full

Ueno Park again, but this time in full bloom or something much closer to it on 1 Apr. See how many more flowers are visible! They have a lovely row that you can walk down

There is no avoiding the crowds

Tokyo Imperial Palace Sakura Tree

Everybody and their mothers crowding around the one tree in full bloom for pix

Locals and tourists alike are willing to queue for their chance at Hanami as it only happens once a year, so expect any Hanami spot you visit to be packed with people. The crowds start to grow once a few trees are in bloom – it is slightly ridiculous how everyone crowds around to photograph that one blooming tree – but once full bloom hits, that number goes up exponentially, especially on the weekend. The most crowded spots I came across include Yoyogi Park near Shibuya, Ueno Park, as well as the Imperial Palace Gardens in Chiyoda.

Tokyo Yoyogi Park Sakura Crowds

Seriously look at the number of people in Yoyogi this is insane

My favourite less-crowded spot that I found was in a rather unusual location – Yanaka Cemetery. It may seem an odd choice for Hanami, but there is an avenue lined with cherry blossoms that is absolutely beautiful. Obviously, there is no picnicking or revelry since it is a cemetery, so you can admire the blooms in quiet and without too much jostling.

Tokyo Yanaka Sakura Row

Just 10 mins walk away from Ueno Park is this much more serene spot – Yanaka Cemetery

Tokyo Yanaka Sakura Tombstone

Such a beautiful place, though definitely not for Hanami parties!

I’ve realised that you can find Sakura just about anywhere in Japan, and often in places you don’t quite expect to, like right next to the overhead bridge or a random blooming tree by the train track. Perhaps it is the ubiquity of the Sakura tree that makes it so popular in Japan?

Tokyo Yokohama Sakura Pink-White

Randomly walking in a park in Yokohama’s Sakuragicho and tadah, fully bloomed trees in two colours right next to each other!

Hanami must-haves

Tokyo Yoyogi Park Sakura Picnic

Get your Hanami on!

Hanami party essentials if you want to sit down at the parks under the trees and do like the locals do:

  • Food and drink – buy your own snacks and drinks to feed yourself while admiring the Sakura, whether it’s a fancy Sakura bento or normal snacks from the convenience store largely depends on your budget. Not all places allow picnics and parties, so check first and also remember to clean up after yourself at the end of your party
  • Ground mat – keep your bottoms dry, and you need the mat to physically reserve your space. I also suggest an additional jacket because sitting down without moving for awhile in prime Hanami weather can get chilly
  • Group of like-minded friends – most important for a fun time and for taking turns to reserve spots! If you’re flying solo and still want the Hanami experience, either make some new friends on the fly (look for fellow travellers or friendly folk with some space to spare!) and share their mat, or just walk around instead and explore the various hanami spots instead of getting stuck in just one location

I had the pleasure of attending two hanami parties – one organized by my hostel at Sumidagawa River near our location. I had first visited Sumidagawa on my first day in Japan, so seeing the difference as well as how they were lit up at night was pretty amazing. Also didn’t hurt that we had free sake and plum wine all night :p

Tokyo Sumidagawa Sakura Night

Sumidagawa by night

My second hanami party was with the JapanTravel folk at Yoyogi Park, and talk about absolute insanity – Saturday afternoon and this huge park was just filled with people in all directions. I had been to Ueno Park and thought that was crowded, but nothing prepared me for the sheer number of heads at Yoyogi. Also important tip – go to the loo before you enter the park, because those toilet queues were crazy long from all the revellers eating and drinking in the park for most of the day. I had a 40-min queue for the ladies >_<

Tokyo Yoyogi Park Sakura Lights

There was a really great atmosphere at Yoyogi! There was a band and buskers next to us, and we even ran into some ravers with their own DJ console and disco lights (which is what you’re seeing here)

Happy Hanami, and don’t worry if you missed it this year, there’s always another year of new blooms to look forward to!

A version of this article was first published on for my 4-week photojournalism internship in April 2016.

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