Thoughts on Solo Travel in the Tiny Town of Tavira Portugal

Travelling with someone else is a very intimate experience. Spending most of your time together in a foreign place inevitably shows you what that person is like, stripped away from the trappings and comforts of home. You truly know a person through travel, and I always say that if you can travel together, you’ll be friends for life.

I had just spent about a week with Y traipsing around Lisbon and Lagos, experiencing the wonders of street art and hilly streets together. So getting on that train and heading from western Algarve across to the east on my own, felt a little lonesome at first. You’ve just gotten used to travelling with someone, and now you’re solo again, having to watch your own bags and eat meals on your own.

Portugal - Tavira Sign
Fresh off the train in Tavira, feeling slightly untethered in Tavira

Things seemed kinda lonely right from the start as I left Y behind on the platform of Lagos. It took a bit of a search to finally find my Airbnb apartment (such small signs~) and my lovely host Dina would be a wealth of useful information later on, but right that afternoon she was suffering a massive toothache and departed quite quickly to get to a dentist. Since I was the first guest to arrive that day, the house was completely empty once she left.

Portugal - Tavira Gilao Burger
Me having a lonesome lunch by the river at Restaurant Gilao. I was a little tired of all the fish we’d been having so I settled for a burger with mushroom bacon and cheese.

So here I was, newly solo and feeling a little stranded, without much clue as to what to do in this tiny little town. Perhaps I’d arrived in mid afternoon and it was blazing out, but man, Tavira was really quiet, especially compared to the buzz of Lisbon and Lagos. I had no luck locating the tourism office at first (I just kept walking by it for some reason), and so decided to have a bit of a wander on my own after lunch. No maps, no GPS, just good ol’ fashioned exploration on foot, and relearning to talk to the voice in my head.

Portugal - Tavira River Gilao Reflective
The River Gilao – everything was rather still and hot that afternoon. This was my view while eating my burger
Portugal - Tavira Roman Bridge
The Roman Bridge that’s not really Roman. There’s another smaller bridge towards the right side that was supposed to be temporary but turned out to be a rather permanent fixture
Portugal - Tavira Rio Gilao Bridge
Crossing the Roman Bridge – there’s little streets and restaurants but in terms of sights, not much to see

I did come across some interesting things when wandering around, and had a merry time eating ice cream on my own.

Portugal - Tavira Climbing Tree
Pretty creeper tree. Also, my horizons aren’t off – remember that Portugal is all hills everywhere~
Portugal - Tavira Colourful Flowers
Pretty colourful flowers!
Portugal - Tavira Door Knockers
I spotted these on a few doors, very very creepy silvery hand knockers *shiver*
Portugal - Tavira Tyre Swan
That’s actually a tyre, how clever!

It turns out this tiny town was the perfect segue back into going solo, and before I returned to the buzz that would be my next stop Porto. Tavira might be less well known compared to all the other places on my itinerary, but you know how when your friends rave about the place, you kinda have to check it out just to see if they were right? I’m glad I did, because Julika was definitely right about this place.

And as solo travels go, I wasn’t alone for too long – while sketching out on my balcony during sunset, I met my newly arrived neighbour, dutch lady V, who just finished attending a conference nearby and was on her own for a day or two before returning home to Amsterdam.

Portugal - Tavira Guesthouse Balcony Sketch
Sketching on the balcony. You could actually see the castle walls on the right side. That balcony on the right belonged to V and was how I met her 🙂
Portugal - Tavira Restaurant Avenida V
Hello my friend V! Here we are having a very sumptuous dinner at Restaurante Avenida recommended by our host. It wasn’t crowded, the food portions were ginormous and it was amazing. I’m having some codfish with prawn sauce with chips (yes that entire plate was my dish). We split a bottle of vino verde and even have pudding for desert, oh my.

I’d also finally found the tourist office and picked up a map, so we ended up exploring Tavira together the next day where we made another friend during dinner in the next table (also Dutch, though from another part instead, but what are the odds… Hello E! We hung out in the town square for drinks when V headed in a little earlier.

If you’re in Tavira on your own, I suggest you go wandering a little, but here’s a couple of things you can check out:


Castelo de Tavira (Tavira Castle)

Portugal - Tavira Castle Garden
That’s Santa Maria Church on the left. The

Probably a bit of a misnomer as there’s hardly any castle left, but some random walls and towers. It does have a beautiful garden and you can climb the walls and towers (no safety barriers whatsoever, be careful!) and it offers an amazing view of the surrounding town and the river Gilao.

Portugal - Tavira Castle View
The River Gilao leads out towards Tavira Island in the distance

The castle is right next to Torre de Tavira (see below) and the Santa Maria church.


Torre de Tavira (Tavira Tower)

Portugal - Tavira Torre Tavira
The Tower – the structure on the left is the lift that brings you up. On level 1 is a tiny little hut where the welcome area is, and chairs/benches line the inside walls for when it gets crowded

This innocuous looking water tower is located one of the highest points in Tavira’s old town, right next to the Santa Maria church and the old Tavira Castle. The water tower also houses something called the Camera Obscura, which we were a little curious about so we went to check it out when it opened at 10am.

Portugal - Tavira Camera Obscura
Exiting the lift, you find yourself in a cavernous dark room that goes pitch black when the guide shuts the door, save for the light coming from the lenses above the bowl

It costs you 3.50euros, and there was just another older Canadian couple there when we were there. Our guide brought us up via a rather modern lift, and we stepped into the water tank itself. A boardwalk of sort had been built, and right in the centre is a large shallow curved bowl.

Portugal - Tavira Camera Obscura Guide
The guide controls the lenses with 2 ropes. It’s surprisingly rudimentary but the picture quality is pretty damn amazing

Camera Obscura turned out to be a rather large life-size pinhole camera, which projected live images of the surrounding town onto the shallow bowl via special lenses installed on top of the tower! It was a little bizarre how clear the detail was – you could see bird flying and our guide gave us a virtual tour of Tavira, zooming into various landmarks and telling us some history. I think we were lucky that we had such clear weather – the guide mentioned that strong winds were the most problematic for the Camera Obscura experience as it meant the lenses (and thus the image) would be rather shaky.


Ilha De Tavira (Tavira Island)

Portugal - Tavira Beach Panorama
Click on the picture for a panoramic view of the absolutely beautiful beach

The beach on Tavira Island is a must-visit if you’re ever in Tavira – I had enjoyed the coastline of Lagos, but this beach here is just amazingly beautiful and not crowded at all, at least when I was there! The weather in October was hot and great for sunbathing, but the waters were kindaaaaaa cold for a tropical person like me. Still, I braved the waters and had an amazing time just chilling out on this beach with V.

Portugal - Tavira Beach Superbock
Enjoying a half pint of superbock (okay 2) before hitting the beach

The midday sun was blazing when we arrived on the island, so we hid out at a random eatery called Sunshine cafe for some lunch first – decent food, there are a bunch of restaurants on and of course you can’t be on the beach without some ice cold beer…

Portugal - Tavira Beach Deckchairs
Empty deckchairs at sunset just before we left

Our guesthouse awesomely provided each room in the house with a foldable beach umbrella, so we brought that along with us and saved some euros by not having to rent a cabana or deckchair along the beach.

Portugal - Tavira Beach Umbrella Shore
I had a lovely green umbrella. The trick is to hang your towel and clothes up to dry in the frame of your umbrella

I spent my name alternating between hiding in the shade of my umbrella, to reading and journalling, and finally took the plunge in the rather cold waters. V had absolutely no problems with the water, so I think I’m just too used to the warm waters of Southeast Asia!

Portugal - Tavira Beach Feet
Chilling out
Portugal - Tavira Beach Shore
I don’t know if it was the time of the year, but the beach was very pleasantly empty

If you have more time, you could also go birdwatching in the nature reserves on the island. There are also other beaches in different spots that you could check out – have a look at this list.

Getting there: the beach is on a separate ‘island’ that’s only accessible by ferry or water taxi. The easiest way to get there is via the Ferry service that runs along the River Gilao, at a spot in the town centre just past the old market. The ferry leaves on the hour/half hour, and runs till later during the summer season, so make sure you check the timings first. There are water taxis available as well if you don’t want to rush for the ferry, but it’s definitely the cheapest way to get to the island at just 1.90 euros for a round trip that takes a leisurely 20mins.

Once you reach Tavira Island, it’s about 5-10 mins walk from the ferry pier to the beach, where you’ll pass through camp sites and restaurants. Just follow the crowds, but once you reach the beach, they all seem to dissipate.

Portugal - Tavira Island Ferry Schedule
Ferry schedule in October. Judging from the black stickers, I thnk they start and end later during peak summer season!
Portugal - Tavira Island Ferry
The ferry has 2 levels – you want to try and get on the upper deck for fresh air, but the bottom deck does have windows as well

STAY: Tavira Guest (on Airbnb)

This was my first Airbnb stay ever! I enjoyed my stay there and glad I had both the privacy and space of my own room, as well as the option to be sociable over breakfast or with my neighbours on the balcony. (First time users to Airbnb can use this link for S$34 credit, which will be passed on to me as well!)

Getting there: It’s a direct walk from the train station, about 15-20mins walk down cobblestoned streets. It’s located on Rua Dr Augusto Carlos Palma with no block or unit number, so it took me walking up and down that little road and finally calling the host Dina before I realized I was actually standing in front of the place all along.

Dina managed to find me and showed me in. Warning for luggage carriers – the apartment is 3 storeys up and there’s no lift, which kinda sucks but you will appreciate having a room higher up because it does give you a nicer view.

Portugal - Tavira Guesthouse Entrance
See that tiny little sign on the door? Yeah I didn’t. You have a key for the building door, the main door upstairs and your room door. The other tenants in the building seem to be commercial – there’s a radiologist on the 2nd floor if I remember correctly.

The Room: I had a literary themed room – with some quotes by Fernando Pessoa on the wall. The room was large and airy and such a literal breath of fresh air after the somewhat cramped room Y and I shared in Lagos.

The shared bathroom was right outside my room so that was convenient. There were about 6 rooms in total, and they were fully occupied on my first night there. One or two of the rooms had their own bathroom, so sharing wasn’t too bad.

Portugal - Tavira Guesthouse Room
It does get afternoon sun, so I had to have the shutters down to keep the room cool. There’s a little sofa seat on the right side just out of frame

Of course my favourite spot was the balcony which overlooked a street corner so it got a little noisier during dinner time, but not overly so. There was a pretty popular restaurant with Al Fresco seating just across the street, though Dina recommended going to Restaurant Avenida just 5 mins away.

Portugal - Tavira Guesthouse Balcony Panorama
Click for panorama of my balcony view! That main road with the zebra crossing is where Restaurant Avenida is located, just a little past the zebra crossing
Portugal - Tavira Guesthouse Balcony
Watching the sunset

The House: The place is pretty spacious and you can get a lot of privacy in the room, which is nice. Location wise it’s also very convenient – you’re about 5-10mins walk from the River Gilao, which in essence puts you within a 15 min radius of practically everything important nearby!

Portugal - Tavira Guesthouse Bathroom
Shared bathroom with a shower on the left.
Portugal - Tavira Guesthouse Hallway
Main hallway entrance. My room door was behind me
Portugal - Tavira Guesthouse Kitchen
The kitchen where you can pick up breakfast in the morning
Portugal - Tavira Guest Breakfast
Breakfast is part of the package, feels like a typical hostel breakfast of bread with ham/cheese and cereal + milk

Here’s a helpful map of what I saw. For such a small place there are actually quite a lot of churches here, but while some like the Misericordia were small but quite impressive inside, I either had not-great pix or wasn’t allowed to take them, so I’ll spare you that.

Have you been to the tiny town of Tavira? What was your experience like?

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