Bangkok detour – a day trip to Ayutthaya

I’ve been to Bangkok 4-5 times in my life, but the reasons i go there have always been the same – cheap shopping, good food and affordable spa options. It’s usually an extended weekend trip, 4 days at most, and all that time is spent in Bangkok city.

So when Tourism Authority of Thailand invited me up on one of their FAM trips recently, i was quite happy to see that a day trip to Ayutthaya was a part of the itinerary. I’ve heard that this little province, once the capital of Thailand, was worth a day trip up to check out, but have never been able to compel myself to go, even though it is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Ayuthaya - Wat Chaiwatanaram view 2
Ayuthaya – Wat Chaiwatanaram view 2

But now that I’ve been there, I’m quite glad that I visited; it reminded me a little of Bali and visiting temples there – Bangkok’s heritage has a similarly strong Hinduism influence in it, and you can see how Indochina and the surrounding regions have also left their mark. For the compulsive shoppers/foodies/spa lovers visiting Bangkok, I’d definitely recommend finding some time to get away from the congested city just for a little bit!


How to get there

The historical city is actually an island within Ayutthaya – we travelled there by coach, which was about an hour’s drive from Bangkok. As usual, you have to take into account Bangkok’s peak hours and heavy traffic getting in and out of the city, though you can see the surrounding city melt away as you leave it. Train is another popular way to get to Ayutthaya – you can take a train from Bangkok’s Hualamphong station – check out seat61 for more details.

When you’re on the island itself, cycling is one of the more popular ways tourists like to see the place, and bicycles are available for hire, or see if you can get one of their little tuktuks – these are different from the Bangkok ones, our guide described them as ‘rat-like’.

Ayuthaya - Wat Chaiwatanaram tuktuk
small pointy nosed tuktuks – the only other place in Thailand you’ll see these types of tuktuks apparently are in Hua Hin

Temples galore

There are many wats (that’s the Thai word for temple) that you can visit here – over 400 in fact! According to our guide, temples were build in abundance by the richer folk as they provided education for their children. We visited just two of the temples in the morning while we were there, which I thought was enough to see similarities and differences without getting ‘templed out’.

Remember that while you’re in a tropical region, you are visiting religious places, so while they aren’t super conservative, avoid the super short shorts or inappropriately revealing tops. I carried a light scarf with me just in case.

There isn’t much shelter either, so make sure you have appropriate sun protection and stay cool and hydrated!

Wat Maha That

Ayuthaya - Wat Maha That dramatic wall
Check out that dramatic sky!

This was once the royal temple of Ayutthaya and housed Buddhist relics, located right next to the royal palace though it’s mostly in ruins now as it was sacked by the Burmese back in 1767, and you’re left to wander around the remains of this once grand place. Generally it’s quite peaceful, save for the tourists roaming around getting in the way of your awesome panoramic shots.

Ayuthaya - Wat Maha That towers
These towers are known as Prangs
Ayuthaya - Wat Maha That stone pile
I found a bunch of these stone stacks around the temple complex
Ayuthaya - Wat Maha That leaning tower
You don’t need to go to Italy to see a leaning tower – this gravity defying prang is pretty cool

There are lots of Buddha statues scattered around as well though most are headless now (apparently also courtesy of the Burmese); one iconic image from this place is this particular Buddha statue’s head which is entwined in the roots of a tree – there’s something a little surreal and beautiful about how nature has taken over.

Ayuthaya - Wat Maha That buddha head roots
One with nature

Opening hours: 8am – 6pm
Entry for foreigners: 50 baht


Wat Chaiwathanaram

Ayuthaya - Wat Chaiwatanaram View
a rather grand panorama welcomes us to Wat Chaiwathanaram

The next temple we visited was Wat Chaiwathanaram, . Built for the King’s mother, it lies on the west bank of the Chao Phraya river and commands some pretty amazing views. Check out the scale model near the entrance, so you can admire the beautiful layout of this place.

Ayuthaya - Wat Chaiwatanaram dramatic spire
this pointy spire is called a stupa. I kinda like how armageddon-y this picture looks 🙂
Ayuthaya - Wat Chaiwatanaram headless statues
More headless Buddhas. It really does make the place quite a lot more atmospheric – and you wonder where all the heads have gone, because while there are some scattered about, there are a lot more bodies than there are heads…
Ayuthaya - Wat Chaiwatanaram Tiles
Looking down at the pretty tile work


What’s special about this temple is the very tall and steep central Prang, which apparently draws much influence from Khmer (Cambodian) style architecture. You can climb up the almost ladder-like stairs on all 4 sides to the top, and I recommend that you do because there are some pretty amazing views from up there!

Ayuthaya - Wat Chaiwatanaram Stairs
Climbing up is almost like going up a ladder, but coming down is way more precarious! Don’t wear a skirt here!
Ayuthaya - Wat Chaiwatanaram panorama view
The view from up there is totally worth it though! You can see the River in the distance
Ayuthaya - Wat Chaiwatanaram daniel concerned
This is Daniel, the writer for, looking rather concerned about how to get down…
Ayutthaya - Wat Chaiwatanaram inside
In case you’re curious, this is what’s at the top of the Prang. There’s a guy to the side who will light the incense for you if you want to pray, but that’s about all there is at the top!


Opening hours: 8am – 6pm
Entry for foreigners: 50 baht


The Food

Ayuthaya - Ban Mai Lim Nam sign
Ayuthaya – Ban Mai Lim Nam sign

We ate at Ban Mai Lim Nam (it seems to go by Ban Mai Rim Nam on the internet though) by the river, which involved a whole lot of Thai style seafood, including some humongous river prawns and catfish. Very filling lunch and known to be a good place overall.

Ayuthaya - Ban Mai Lim Nam river prawn
River prawns are huge and a different taste from the usual prawns we eat
Ayuthaya - Ban Mai Lim Nam basil chicken
This chicken curry thing was way herby and spicy!

33 U-thong Road, Tambon Pratu Chai, Amphoe Phra Nakhon


Roti Sai Mai

Ayuthaya - Roti Sai Mai stall
One of many roti sai mai stalls
Ayuthaya - Roti Sai Mai skin
the skin is something similar to popiah skin – usually it’s plain, but these innovative folk have added some ingredients for colour and taste! Pink is dragonfruit, yellow is banana, green for pandan and the black spots are black sesame1
Ayuthaya - Roti Sai Mai candy floss
The candy floss is packed separately so it doesn’t melt – you have to roll them together yourself if you take away. I brought a pack back for the office but ended up eating half on my own because it’s pretty damn yummy and surprisingly addictive.

As you walk around the streets of Ayuthaya, you might spot a lot of shops selling this interesting concoction. Roti Sai Mai is a famous local snack which is basically straw like sticks of candy floss rolled in popiah/spring roll skin. It can be a little sweet, but the skin does temper the sugar nicely (I had 3 rolls for supper, oops)

Ayuthaya - Roti Sai Mai eating
Chomping down on a freshly made roti sai mai – best eaten hot!


Is that all you can do in Ayutthaya? Probably not! If I stayed overnight there, it might have been nice perhaps to go on a cycling tour. There is also an elephant village where elephants large and small perform, but it’s really not my thing…

Have you been to Ayutthaya? Share your tips and experience with us here!

Some resources online that I found quite useful:

Travelfish has quite an extensive guide on how to get to Ayutthaya and get around on your own

Tourism Thailand‘s official site gives you info but not much on actual reviews

This trip to Thailand was sponsored courtesy of Tourism Authority of Thailand and Thai Airways International. All views are my own.


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